Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Skin Care Ingredients...Helping you understand the labels!


Ever wondered what all those really long words mean listed on the label of your skin care products? It’s important to understand what you are putting on your skin so that you are sure the products you use are targeting your skin care needs and not making them worse. The list below is not a complete list of everything contained in skin care ingredients, but it is a good start and certainly includes many of the ingredients used in todays anti-aging products.
Allantoin – A botanical extract from comfrey root. Medical grade allantoin, is a proven cell-healing agent that stimulates healthy tissue formation. It also helps promote the repair of photo damage and reduces UV induced inflammation. 

Antioxidants – Ingredients which help the body resist free radicals that damage the body and prematurely age the skin. Different antioxidants target different areas of the skin to accomplish different tasks. It is believed that some antioxidants may hold the key to stimulating fibroblast activity to repair the dermis. 

 

Avobenzone – This synthetic sunscreen ingredient (also known as Parsol 1789 and Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) can protect against the entire range of the sun’s UVA rays. 
 

Bambusa Vulgaris Extract (Bamboo Extract) – A highly effective antioxidant complex that helps minimize and control wrinkles, with natural anti-inflammatory properties. 

Bisabolol – A botanical extract derived from Chamomile or Yarrow known for its anti-inflammatory and soothing benefits. 

Caffeine – Topical application results in mild constriction of blood vessels and subsequent decreases in blood flow, which aids in diminishing dark circles under the eye area.
Carrot Polypeptides (Daucus Carota Sativa Root) – A naturally derived form of Vitamin A. Promotes rapid utilization and absorption of Vitamin A. Supports Matrix Metalloproteinase (MMP) inhibition to protect against collagen destruction. Potent antioxidant.
Cucumber Fruit Extract (Cucumis Sativus) – Cools and refreshes the skin and has anti-inflammatory and skin tightening properties. 

Crosslinked Sodium Hyaluronate – Purified, highly potent form of Hyaluronic Acid, a naturally occurring substance found in the fluids surrounding cells and tissues. Hyaluronic Acid is found in abundance in young skin, and becomes depleted with age. Loss of Hyaluronic Acid contributes to loss of elasticity, sagging and wrinkling of the dermis and epidermis. Crosslinked Sodium Hyaluronate is topical version of one of the most widely acclaimed wrinkle fillers. It delivers 4-5 times more hydration than Hyaluronic Acid, and represents a true breakthrough in technology. Combined with other actives, it is unparalleled in both attracting and binding humectants and moisture to the skin. It ´s extremely potent in adding volume lost by the aging process – temporarily smoothing out facial lines and wrinkles. The inclusion of this ingredient will have an immediate and visible effect on the skin. 
 

Dimethicone – OTC ingredient with a breathable barrier bolsters skin´s natural defenses. Creates a two-way “zone of inhibition” that prevents the entry of harmful external irritants and potential environmental skin-agers and prevents the exit of vital moisture. Due to its ability to remain present, active and effective for extended periods of time, Dimethicone puts skin in heightened state of preparedness against unexpected factors that can compromise skin´s health and well-being. It also smoothes and heals.
Emu Oil (Dromiceius Oil) – ALSO POTENT SOURCE OF EFA´S – This highly moisturizing, natural skin softener has rejuvenating properties and has been shown to help reduce the depth and length of fine lines and wrinkles. It is non-greasy and highly penetrating. It is also non-comedogenic (does not clog pores), non-irritating and gentle for all skin types. It is also an effective anti-inflammatory.
Essential Fatty Acids – EFAs – Natural components of skin which help to make up the outer layer. They help protect the body against oxidative damage. EFA´s form basic building blocks of body fats and cellular membranes. Topical EFA´s improve skin´s water retention and help “water-proof” the skin. If your skin is dry, prone to inflammation, and frequently dotted with white heads and black heads, you may be lacking essential fatty acids, nutrients that are crucial to the production of skin´s natural oil barrier. Without an adequate supply of EFA´s, the skin produces a more irritating form of sebum, or oil, which can result in skin problems.
Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) – The ultimate cell regenerators. These marine-derived complex proteins help support collagen structure and increase skin´s elasticity. 
 

Green Tea Leaf Extract (Camellia Sinensis) – A super antioxidant with many health and healing benefits. 

Homosalate – A recognized sunscreen that filters out UVB rays, which do their damage at the cellular level. 

Licorice Extract (Glycyrrhiza Glabra) – Extracted from the roots of the Licorice plant, it is used topically as a natural skin lightener and anti-inflammatory.
Evening Primrose Root Extract – One of the family of essential fatty acids, which form the basic building blocks of cell membranes. When used as a topical ingredient, Evening Primrose Oil has moisturizing and softening effects.
Octinoxate and Octisalate – Sunscreens used to protect skin primarily from the sun´s UVB rays: the longer wavelength “burning” rays. 

Peptides – Proteins are long chains of amino acids. Peptides are short chains of amino acids which serve as “messengers” that regulate various functions in the body and on the skin. Different peptides have different functions: some activate hormonal activity, others antibiotic activity, still others activate wound healing and skin repair.
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (Ceramide-2) – Independent studies have shown that Ceramide-2 enhances the production of collagen and GAGs and supports the growth of matrix and connective tissues. 

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7 – A powerful anti-inflammatory that helps promote tissue regeneration resulting in normalization of damaged skin. Skin looks and “acts” younger renewing its strength against photo aging and environmental damage.
Pisum Sativum (Pea) Extract – Contains vital amino acids and proteins necessary for the production of collagen and elastin. It also fights free radicals, thus helping to prevent new wrinkles from forming. 

Punica Granatum Extract (Pomegranate) – An excellent external astringent for oily complexions. In addition, recent studies cite it as a potent antioxidant. Pomegranate Extract contains several polyphenols and anthocyanidins (pigment that gives certain fruits their dark red colors) that are said to have a higher antioxidant activity than that of red wine and green tea.
Resveratrol – A plant extract from the stalks and stems of the vine. It provides a natural defense mechanism and is a leading anti-oxidant. 100% of the benefits are released into the skin helping to defend against UVA/UVB exposure. It also reduces irritation and puffiness. 

Retinol – This is a derivative of vitamin A and is the active ingredient in found in several important prescription skincare products such as Retin-A and Renova. Retinol is proven to improve mottled skin pigmentation, skin texture, tone and color, enhance skin hydration and help decrease fine lines and wrinkles.
Saccharomyces Lysate Extract – A derivative of yeast, this ingredient helps foster cell respiration.
Salicylic Acid – Often referred as beta hydroxy acid (BHA) – A multifunctional ingredient with a multitude of properties – including anti-microbial — that address many systemic causes of blemishes. It also improves collagen production.
Sodium Dehydroacetate – Made from organic salt. It is used to fight bacteria and fungi on the skin. 

Sorbitol – A humectant found in berries, grapes, plums, and pears. Often used in place of glycerin as a moisturizing agent in topical skincare. 

Tricontanyl PVP – A film-forming agent used to improve water resistance properties and enhance SPF properties. 

Vitamin B (Panthenyl and Panthenyl Ethyl Ether) – A moisturizing agent for skin care. Also aids in tissue repair. 

Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Sodium Ascrobyl Phosphate) – Vitamin C is a water-soluble vitamin. Unlike most mammals, humans do not have the ability to make their own vitamin C. Therefore, we must obtain vitamin C through our diet. Vitamin C is required for the synthesis of collagen, an important structural component of skin. Vitamin C is also a highly effective antioxidant. Even in small amounts vitamin C can protect indispensable molecules in the body. Vitamin C also helps promote healing and minimizes hyperpigmentation by reducing melanin production. Researchers attribute Vitamin C to helping reverse existing damage deep within the skin and may also give the skin a boost in natural resistance to UVA/UVB damage. In addition, Vitamin C helps regenerate Vitamin E in the skin, enabling it to sustain its antioxidant protection.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate – Stable form of super potent Vitamin C. Shown to increase collagen by 50% in vitro studies. Promotes whitening/lightening of dark circles and counteracts hyperpigmentation. Offers extremely potent antioxidant protection.
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) – Considered an antioxidant superstar. Vitamin E is a lipid-soluble vitamin (meaning it likes fat better than water) that when applied topically to skin provides significant antioxidant protection against ultraviolet rays. It combats free radical damage and protects from the adverse effects of oxidative stress including photo aging. Vitamin E also enhances moisturization and minimizes cell damage caused by inflammation.
Vitamin F (Linoleic Acid) – An essential fatty acid (EFA) which has emollient, water binding, and antioxidant properties for skin.
Yeast Extract – Comprised of a complex mixture of proteins, sugars and amino acids, it is an excellent humectant which may enhance the rate of cell turnover. It also helps reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation by working to block melanin synthesis, revitalizes skin with moisture while it fights dryness and restores elasticity to skin.

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Barbie Winterbottom
Barbie is the founder of Advanced Aesthetics and co-founder of the former Anti-Aging & Aesthetic Institute and in Tampa, FL. A licensed medical esthetician, Barbie has studied with physicians, internationally renowned CIDESCO skin care professionals, scientists and researchers to fully understand the skin, products, treatments and how to make them all work together for the best benefit of the client. Expanding on her own clinical practice, Barbie is now sharing her insight and knowledge globally on the web via this blog, The Examiner.com and more. Barbie is frequently featured on local and syndicated TV programs for her expertise in skin care and trends in the industry.
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